Saturday, November 17, 2012

The Rain In Spain Doesn’t Just Stay Mainly In The Plain


Eliza Doolittle was wrong.  Dead wrong.  Thankfully I had the forethought to pack a brolly, we had a spare one in the villa and the in-laws had their own dollar store rain capes with them.  It turns out they all came in handy.  Costa del Sol, my ass.

Our day in Ronda was plagued by intermittent, torrential downpours.  Aside from chilling us to the bone and making taking photographs frustrating, to say the least, the rain was replenishing the natural reservoirs that were reaching dangerously low levels.  See the good (thanks for this reminder, BM).

After a harrowing, two hour drive through the mountains along steep precipices, around hairpin turns and down narrow roads barely wide enough to accommodate our tour bus, we arrived at the Ronda bus station and disembarked to begin our walking tour through the rain-soaked town.


Our multilingual tour guide (English, French, Spanish, German, Dutch) did a fantastic job of showing us the highlights of this 1300 year old city that spans across a gorge whose depth is reminiscent of landscapes seen in Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings movies.  The fog obscuring the bottom of the gorge made for a very unsettling feeling in the pit of my stomach.  I stayed a safe distance away from the edge of the bridge and the lookout points.  Mr. U is far more intrepid than I and he managed to capture some breathtaking images of the empty spaces below. *shudder*  I believe my nickname for the day was “you big chicken pants”.  Charming

the drop continues on and on and on and on and on... you get the picture


The old part of town is known as the “Arab” side as settlers came from the North African peninsula in the year 711, climbed the mountain and conquered what was then the city.  Originally a Roman settlement, the Moors took over and ruled for many years until eventually the Spaniards reclaimed the space and Ronda became the property of Spain once again.  The half of the city on the other side of the gorge is known as the “New City”.  Both parts of the city offer breathtaking views of the gorge and the valley below.

I couldn't imagine being a labourer on these building projects.

olive trees, cork trees and asparagus fields
as close as I was willing to get to the edge

recently renovated properties on the Arab side




Roman base with Moorish minaret turned into a Catholic church
we had a wine tasting here
500€ fine for allowing squirrel cats to sit on three-pronged surfaces?  I'm confused.
Ronda is also home to the oldest bullring in the country.  Once a year they hold an official bullfight attended by His Majesty Juan Carlos I, the King of Spain.  Tickets range from 80€ three weeks before the fight up to 3000€ the week before the fight.

One of Spain’s most famous bullfighters, Cayetano Ordóñez - Niño de la Palma, hails from Ronda.  Hemingway modeled the character of Pedro Romero after Ordóñez in his novel The Sun Also Rises.


 

The cost of a bullfight is very high - 150,000.00€/matador and 50,000.00€/bull.



Royal box
 > 500 kg the bull moves too slowly; < 500kg the bull moves too quickly

the bulls enter the ring here


the bulls exit the ring here

Our day in Ronda came to a close after a wonderful lunch at Don Miguel restaurant which is built into the side of the precipice, overlooking the gorge.  As we were rained out, we had to satisfy ourselves with a window seat inside instead of a patio seat outdoors.  (Secretly I was fine with that.)

the view of restaurant Don Miguel nestled into the side of the gorge as seen from the Arab side


A Taxi, A Donkey Ride, Some Paella and A Bullring

Our Lady The Virgin of the Rock

A 20 minute drive from Torremolinos, nestled into the mountainside, is Mijas.  Protected by its patron saint, the Virgen de la Peña, Mijas is a sleepy, little village that houses a thriving cultural and craft industry.  A day trip out of town was the perfect distraction from the wind, rain and grey skies hovering over the beach.
foreshadowing?

horse-drawn carriages waiting for fares in the main square
Arriving into the main square, one’s senses are immediately assaulted by the sight, sound and smell of...donkeys?!!  Wow, are they ever loud and stinky.  Who knew?  This, of course, didn’t stop one of us from taking a donkey ride around town for 10€.  Neither Mr. U nor I were the riders, TYVM.  My intrepid mother-in-law was the brave soul who couldn’t pass up the opportunity to go for a ride.  I love that she is fearless in the face of new experiences.  I’m not nearly as brave as she is.


 A bit of shopping for leather goods (m-i-l bought a purse) and a hearty lunch of paella later, we climbed the steps just off the main square and found ourselves in a bustling main plaza with narrow, cobblestone-lined streets and shops aplenty.

lunchtime paella for three

Mijas is known for its ceramics.





Further up the hill we explored the town’s bullring which was built in 1900 and is still used today.  Tickets to the bullfights range from 80€ to 300€ depending on where your seats are located (sun vs shade).  

"cheap" seats on the sunny side of the ring




From the hilltop vantage point one can see the red clay rooftops and whitewashed walls of the village homes sprawling along the mountainside. 


photo: Mr. U
photo: Mr. U




It was a great day spent in a village that was consistent with the image of "Spain-in-my-head".

Gee, That Was Easy.

Famous.Last.Words.

Leaving Moscow on a Saturday night around 4:30PM to catch a 7PM flight is actually a civilized time, we thought to ourselves.  Too bad one of us (I honestly can’t remember which one of us was responsible for saying it out loud so I’ll call it a draw) mucked it up.  Through check-in, security, passport control and at the gate in 25 minutes seemed too good to be true. 

Our flight was to depart at 7PM and arrive at the Malaga airport around 10:30PM, giving us the day to relax, prepare, pack and lounge without having to get out of bed at an ungodly hour, struggle to raise our collective levels of consciousness to basic functioning and then deal with the “Moscow crush” at every waypoint on the way to the aircraft.

Sitting at the empty gate as quietly and patiently as only Canadians do, (well Mr. U was - I was fidgety, apparently) we watched as the area slowly swelled with our fellow travelers heading out in search of sunshine and warmer climes.  The Russian passengers were still bundled up to their teeth even in the waiting area on their way to the Costa del (not-so-much) Sol.  I was already melting in my t-shirt and jeans.

True to form as the indicated boarding time drew near, a “line” spontaneously formed at the gate.  It is amazing how people can be waiting for hours for their flight at the gate and yet they somehow aren’t the first ones in line to board the plane.  People seemed to come out of nowhere and join the queue not at the tail, but wherever they wanted, mostly at the front.  I wasn’t having any of that so I placed myself squarely in line while Mr. U watched with a bemused look on his face.  Nobody was going to get in front of me.  I like to think it was my look of fierce determination that prevented anyone from butting into line but in reality it was probably the slightly wild, somewhat crazed expression on my face that made others not want to deal with the “foreigner” that kept them away.  Come to think of it, even Mr. U didn’t join me in the queue until just about boarding time.

Boarding time, right.  About that.  Since we were off to such a great start, it was a narrative imperative that things would go slightly awry at this point.  Time ticking away well past the designated boarding time and rapidly approaching scheduled departure time, I began to realize that the boarding agents’ behaviour was not quite following SOP.  In fact, they were darting back and forth between the small desk and the security doors too often for my liking.  It was becoming painfully obvious that something was amiss.  As Charlie Brown’s teacher was in charge of the airport announcements, there was no clear indication that any flight details or updates were forthcoming.  The gate agents continued to pace back and forth like caged tigers and the crowd was beginning to exhibit impatience as people were moving closer together and constantly pestering the agents for information.  Eventually the two agents gave up and retreated behind the secure zone gates for a reprieve from the masses.  At this point I was having flashbacks to our aborted attempt to escape to Las Vegas for MM’s 40th B-day three years prior.  That story ended with us deplaning ourselves after a 4 hour delay on board, followed by a 6 month struggle for reimbursement from WestJet Vacations.

A gate change (NOT announced over the PA, by the way) and further 2 hour delay later,  we were finally on board and ready to go.  Thankfully the rest of the flight went according to plan save for the headwinds that delayed our arrival in Malaga even further. 

Moscow may have a personal space issue but Spain, it seemed, had a staffing issue.  The passport control officers weren’t at their post and no airline staff members were there to greet us upon arrival.  Some poor security official had to escort a plane full of eager, tired, cranky and somewhat stinky individuals who do not, as a general rule, do the waiting thing all that well.  Bringing us through two check points of stop and go, the crowd behind us began to jockey for position dragging all sorts of carry-on, duty free and sundries.  Again, I was not letting anyone get in my way and was determined to stay at the head of the pack.  I may have left Mr. U behind at one point.  Not to worry, he caught up with me and I daresay there was a gleam of pride in his eyes.  Of course, that could have been tears of frustration but I choose to think of it as pride.

The passport control agent took my passport, gave it a cursory look, sneered at me and begrudgingly stamped an arbitrary page.  He tossed it back at me and shot me a bleary-eyed look when I said “gracias” in my best Spanish.  The entire exchange took less than 15 seconds.

Since I checked a bag (normally carry-on only is the standard for our travels), we had to go to the baggage arrival area and retrieve my luggage before hailing a cab in the pitch dark to get to our quaint “villa” (villa may be overstating the sweet, little, two floor apartment but I choose to see it as our Spanish villa for the week).  Since we were not arriving from western Europe, we had to claim our bag in a secure zone and then pass through Spanish customs.  The “secure zone” was a glass-walled area with a baggage carrousel.  The customs area (aka the departure point from the glass-walled area) was a doorway with a metal table on one side and two customs officials standing watch.  Needless to say, we marched right through that gauntlet and out into the warm, fresh, night air.

The taxi stand was a bit of a goat show but we waited no more than 5 minutes in line for our driver to pull out of the queue of waiting cabs.  During that time we were treated to a bit of a show replete with hollering, honking and hand gestures.  I’m pretty sure that one of the statements by the controller was, “Oh, come ON, man!”.  Too funny.  Welcome to Spain.

It was difficult to tell what the area looked like in the pitch dark, but the palm tree-lined streets reminded me of our trip to Athens in the Spring.  That only stands to reason as we were really just further down the Mediterranean coast.  It turns out that Torremolinos is a sleepy, seaside town with a bustling boardwalk and many sprawling, sandy beaches.  The Costa del Sol is renowned for, well, its sunshine (Sol = sunshine).  I’m sure it is there during peak season.  It is too bad we didn’t experience too much of it this trip.  Apparently they haven’t seen this much rain in about a year.  I sure am glad we were able to bring a large quantity of much-needed precipitation with us.  **Note the sarcasm in my voice.

Despite the rain and the cooler weather (both hazards of traveling during off-peak season), R&R were on the schedule. 

Mission accomplished.

Mediterranean view
beach view


Mojitos all around!
our "villa" patio

cafe con leche

This isn't a "retro" napkin holder - I'm pretty sure that it is original to the diner.

weekly (mock) bullfights and flamenco shows
rolling waves and grey skies on the Costa del not-so-much Sol

5€ to rent a beach chair
off season boat storage
a quick dip in the Mediterranean

sand castles for your viewing pleasure - please tip generously

 
lush greenery

A great place to take a cat nap!

beachfront bar
shoes for sale






    dinner for 4

You can tell it is low season - houses boarded up for the "winter".
tourists

locals


Sunday, September 23, 2012

Boom, KA POW!

By now we are used to the fireworks that seem to be set off at least three times a week but last night's were different.  You see, we usually hear them but can't see them as the tall buildings around the apartment block hide all but the highest and brightest of explosions.

Last night we were treated to a rare spectacle of a full display being launched from the banks of the Moscow river directly in front of our building.  Since the sounds were much closer and far more intense, I decided to peel back the blackout curtains and investigate.  I'm so glad I did. 

Enjoy!

part 1 (partway through)

part 2 (grand finale)