Thursday, May 30, 2013

Push Finally Came To Shove

Well, I finally did it.  I bit the bullet.  After almost 2 years here in Moscow, there was no more denying it.  It was time to give in.  Not being able to predict the next time I’d be back in Canada to have things taken care of, I could no longer wait.  I had no choice but to trust that everything would be alright in the end; that taking this enormous leap of faith would not turn out to be the single worst decision of my life.  What could go wrong, I thought to myself.  It isn’t like the results would be life-threatening or permanent (well, not that there wouldn’t be a way to compensate should things not go according to plan, at least).  I do have options, however unsavoury they may be, should things go terribly awry.

I had spent the better part of 3 hours surfing the web, comparing prices, services, locations, reviews on Expat discussion boards and everything in between.  I had finally decided on a location where I’d tempt the gods of fate.  Prices seemed competitive and the location was within walking distance from home, along one of my regular commuting routes.  Muscovite women do this every day and they don’t seem any worse for the wear and in fact, they are excellent advocates (read: walking billboards) for what I was setting out to do.  A quick internet search netted me a few key terms that would help me to be clearly understood should the language barrier prove to challenging (this is what I hoped, anyway) and I typed them into the handy note section of my iPhone.  Not having a 3G plan and having to rely on various free wifi connections throughout town, I did not want to risk not being prepared.  The following two phrases would have to be enough to compliment my rudimentary Russian skills: окрашивание волос & темно-коричневого почти черного.  Shamefully, I do not yet speak the language fluently.  Mea Culpa.  Becoming fluent in Russian, well, more fluent than I am currently is part of my personal improvement plan for the coming year.  Applying austerity measures and personal growth are the two goals I have for our remaining time here in the Motherland.

But I digress.

Screwing my courage to the sticking point, I put on my shoes, grabbed my wallet, keys and phone (can’t forget the phone!) and left the house fully intending to “get ‘er done” before I changed my mind.  I knew that since I did not have an appointment, I might have to wait or even be turned away but I was hoping that since it was Sunday afternoon, there would be a minimal wait, if at all. 

Alas, my plan was foiled by lack of availability although il n’y avait pas un chat in the entire place.  I couldn’t for the life of me think of why I would have to wait 2 hours before someone could see me.  I opted for a confirmed appointment the following day rather than loiter for two hours before Олга could even see me, let alone do what she had to do.  That would have me home around 6PM at the earliest and that was not happening.  besides, what would I do for 2 hours?  I suppose that Starbucks was an option but the draw of wearing a pair yoga pants and lounging in my own livingroom was far too tempting a prospect.  Although, in hindsight, a chai latté would have been heavenly.

Let the record show that with her limited English (I still think she had more than she let on) and my halting Russian, Ирина and I worked out a time and date that we both understood.  Thankfully she wrote the details on a business card so I’d know exactly what she meant.  Truthfully, it only confirmed that I understood that I should return the following day at 1PM ready to meet with Олга.  Mr. U being out of town, galavanting across Western Europe without me this time, I had no choice but to sort myself out.  Who am I kidding?  Even when he is here, he encourages me to work it all out by myself in preparation for cases such as these, when I get great ideas and he is not around to do it for me.  One of these days his method (madness?) will backfire all over me but today was not that day (thankfully).


http://www.nato-russia-council.info/en/articles/20130318-nrc-afghan-coop-talks-moscow/ 
So here I was on Monday, primed and ready to head out to face my moment of destiny head-on.  Knowing that I would have a window of about six hours before Mr. U was due to come home during which I might potentially fix a disastrous outcome but desperately hoping it would not be necessary, I strode along the Moscow river, crossed over to the other side with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs building looming large in front of me, took a deep breath and crossed the threshold of Digi & Digi to meet Олга and have her ... cover the grey hairs that are slowly (and noticeably!!) creeping in.

Does the drywall patching indicate renovations or decay?
I’m pretty sure that at this point you’re asking yourself, “why all the build up for a hair appointment?”  You think about spending the equivalent of 200$ for a dye job and blow dry and tell me how quickly you’re willing to part with two C-notes.  Yikes.  Did I forget to mention the insane prices that are charged by hair salons?  This one isn’t nearly the worst of them, either!  The Aveda salon in the mall a stone’s throw away from my apartment charges 200$ for the colour alone, then there is the cost of the blowdry and then any other kind of treatment they see fit to throw in - you need a conditioning treatment, there was a head massage, we offered you water and don’t get me started on a tip as well!  Before you turn around, that little appointment would cost a cool three C-notes, minimum.  Again, not the most expensive venue in the city.

Now can you understand why I was defaulting to my long-time friend and stylist back in Ottawa whenever I was back there these past couple of years.

It turns out that Олга is a teeny, tiny slip of a woman with a whole lot of power and endurance in her skinny, little arms.  Once she found the colour swatches in her sample books and we decided on a formula for my hair, off she scooted to mix the paste that would eradicate the usurping grey hairs.

When having my colour done, I am used to a towel protecting the nape of my neck secured in place by a black, polyester cape (usually with some company logo emblazoned on the front) and a generous amount of some sort of silicone-based cream spread along my hairline to help avoid dark staining on my skin.  Олга applied the cream which gave me confidence but when she plucked two tissues from the box of kleenex on the counter in front of me and tucked them into the back of my shirt, it was all I could do to not burst out laughing out of sheer nervousness.  Compound that with the transparent sheet of something that can only be described as a drop cloth draped over my front and tied with tiny straps around my neck and my confidence level began to sink exponentially.  All dressed up with kleenex and wrapped in a plastic bag on steroids, Олга set to work applying colour to the roots of my hair.  Her method was very thorough and my confidence level once again was on the rise.  When she was finished and leaving me to cook, she left the area leaving me alone with my reflection.  I looked like an untidy lion.  There are no photographs, do not even think about it.

I passed the required incubation time by reading War and Peace on the iPad (I’m about 1/3 of the way through) and listening to the musical offerings of the salon.  I’m not sure if they were playing English music because of me or if they were playing it because it was enjoyable (I use that term loosely) but again, I had to stifle a fit of the giggles.  Watch the short video and tell me what you would have done in my place!


The tunes did get better after a couple of songs but I was afraid that it was an entire album of MJ’s greatest hits recorded by a Russian woman in pain.  When the instrumental arrangement of The Look of Love came on, followed by As Time Goes By, I was able to find my happy place.

Олга spent the next 15 minutes pulling the colour through my nightmare of a head of curly hair (which is now past my shoulders, BTW) and she worked so hard that she broke a sweat.  At that point I decided her tip would be a bit higher than I had initially planned.  She certainly earned it.  Although I reconsidered my position when she slicked my hair down and made me look like PeeWee Herman. *sigh*

And now the hard part, I thought to myself.  As I looked at my reflection I noticed how dark the dye was around the edges of my hairline.  I was convinced that I was going to walk out of the salon with a grey ring almost an inch wide around my face.  I would have to resort to the My Big Fat Greek Wedding cure-all of Windex to wipe away the stain or not show my face in public until it faded sufficiently.  I don’t have bangs.

Олга, the little miracle-worker, managed to wipe my forehead clean, blow dry my hair straight and even add a little playful flip on each side.  For exactly 4.7 minutes I looked like a well-coiffed woman who belonged in Moscow.  Credit card swiped, receipt signed, handshake with a 500 руб note pressed into Олга’s palm later and I was out the door, feeling great about my first (and definitely not my last) hair experience.


Look Ma, no stains, no grey!
note the playful flip


Way to go, Олга.  Спасибо большое

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Kermit Was Right

Rainbows are simply fascinating.


Late yesterday afternoon there was a fantastic electrical storm that left the air crackling with the smell of ozone and the sky painted with the most exquisite full arc double rainbow.  I must have stood on our balcony for about a half an hour enjoying the rain and its beautiful aftermath.  It brought me back to the summer days in St. Agathe when I was very young.  My father and I used to stand in the screened-in porch of our rented country house just watching and listening to the rain and the thunder and lightening.  I was so small then and the world seemed so immense.






The calm after the storm.

Friday, May 17, 2013

День Победы 2013


Victory Day this year fell on a Thursday which meant a day off in the latter part of the week for Mr. U.  Last year we left the house a touch too late find a good spot to catch the entire parade of vehicles so this year we set off earlier in the hopes of finding higher ground and an unobstructed view.  We still managed to sleep in a touch and then set out in the bright sunshine with plenty of time to spare.  Our plan was to stand along the parade route at the end of Но́вый Арба́т on the steps of Храм Симеона Столпника but once we got there, the vantage point seemed to be better in theory than in practice.

http://mosday.ru/images/9may_parade_route_scheme.jpg 

File:Moscow Church of Simeon Stylites.jpg
Храм Симеона Столпника

We wound our way back about halfway down the boulevard until we found a spot that would allow is to watch the heavy artillery roll past.  This was the first time in a long time that both Mr. U and I were exposed to the sun's rays.  I feared we would burn to a crisp in no time flat.  Guess who didn't slap on any sunscreen nor don a hat of any sort?

About a half hour after we had staked a claim on our territory, the trucks and tanks and weapons came rolling by.  As usual, their size and the implications of their power and potential did not fail to impress.  It is inspiring to see that Muscovites of all ages come to witness this yearly spectacle.  In fact, I'm sure that I spotted my ба́бушка's doppelganger in the crowd next to us.

Bubbie, is that you?





Serious tank action here!



A rousing speech for the masses.



Perhaps next year we will be able to catch a dress rehearsal performance of the various branches of military personnel.  Trying to get into Red Square or anywhere near it on May 9th is pretty much impossible.  They practice multiple times throughout the week leading up to Victory Day and it is possible to watch the parade as it goes by from a number of restaurants in the area of Red Square.  We almost made it to a rehearsal this year but unforeseen circumstances got in the way (I came down with a horrible cold).  There is always next year, right?  I'm very much looking forward to it.

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Amsterdam, Redux


Last year we spent Easter weekend in Amsterdam and this spring I got to come back, on my own this time.  Mr. U got to enjoy his down time in Moscow while I was traipsing across Western Europe, using up the last of my “travel allowance”.   Since he has already spent time in both cities, Paris and Amsterdam don’t have the same draw for Mr. U as they do for me.  Now if I were spending time in Copenhagen, I’m sure he would have been by my side, no questions asked.  He has a northern soul, don’t you know.  I’m a bit more of a cheese and baguette kind of girl.  However, once I visit Copenhagen, I suspect that all bets may be off.

Since MM lives in Amsterdam, I have a place to crash any time I want (lucky me!) and since I was in Paris already (just a stone’s throw away), I was open to the idea of hopping on a TGV and scooting up to The ‘Dam for a weekend.  Thankfully MM was open to the idea of putting me up for the weekend!

Amsterdam is quickly becoming my second home in Europe.  I love its energy and its intimacy.  I find myself fascinated by and drawn to the vibrant colours and textures and sights and sounds that are everywhere in this exciting city.  I now know my way around fairly well (read: I know where there is good shopping) and armed with a GVB travel pass, I can get myself just about anywhere without too much trouble.

This particular weekend I had two things on my agenda: 1) to visit the Van Gogh museum which, you may recall, I wasn’t able to visit last time I was in town despite waiting over an hour in line and 2) take a trip to the zoo!  Early spring usually sees warm and sunny days in Amsterdam and despite this being the norm, it was rather chilly.  Nevertheless, MM and I made the most of it and spent lots of time bombing around town, taking in the sights and taking advantage of the time we had together.  Thai food for dinner one night, a Chunky Monkey cocktail and munchies at the Ghetto, Guinness at an Irish Pub with our favourite Irishman, the first ice cream of the season with Crash’s second mommy and a trip to the Saturday morning markets rounded out the weekend’s activities (not necessarily in that order).



Bagels & Beans

Delicious Food

organic bread at the market

love the colour

Poffertjes on the Westerstraat. Lekker!

First. Ice Cream. Of. The. Season
A very fancy burger at The Ghetto

Dam Square all dressed up for Queen's Day
MM went to the gym to box out some pent up energy so I took the tram and the metro over to the Hermitage Amsterdam (what a coincidence, it seems I just can’t escape the Motherland even in the Netherlands!) to visit the jewels of the collection from the Van Gogh museum that are on temporary display while the VG museum itself undergoes renovations.



I was once again awestruck by Vincent’s expressive talent (as I always am) when I came face to face with one of the paintings depicting a farmer’s field where I had stood less than 48 hours before.  Nothing comes close to the intimacy of bearing witness to the vibrant colours and traces of energy left by an artist, still visible on the canvas, after having stood in the space of the inspiration’s provenance.  It was as if the painting were completed minutes before and hung on the wall especially for me. 

Champ de blé aux corbeaux, Van Gogh July 1890
I could hear the flapping of wings as the birds took flight, the low rustling of the wind as it blew across the field, disturbing the delicate sheafs of wheat to move them in waves as if they flowed like water on the surface of a turbulent lake.  The tumultuous sky and bright, contrasting colours left me with a feeling of intense turbulence.  It was not difficult to see how troubled Vincent was at the end of his life.

By the time Sunday rolled around, we were ready for a bit of fresh air and that meant a trip to the zoo, rain or shine.  MM, the Irishman and I set out for what would prove to be a fantastic day of communing with weird and wonderful animals in the bright sunshine!

for Ida

Overcompensation?

A pelican's pouch holds more than its belly can!

fuzzy wallaby


Free range cassowaries?!!
These two cuties reminded me of the two old guys in the TD Bank commercials.

MM hand-feeding a hungry duck.

The Insectarium

Before & After




I've found Nemo!






Monkey Business




Leapin' lemurs!
It must be love.
I wonder what adventures await me the next time I come to town.  Perhaps an appointment with Dermadonna or a side trip to see Madurodam in the Hague or even a day in Gouda?

The possibilities are endless.