Sunday Tray Day

Awake long before the sun, I bundled myself up in a coat, gloves, a long, wooly scarf and a pair of boots.  My MEC backpack was stocked with some apple slices and peanut butter, crackers and cheese, a wallet full of ca$h, some hand sanitizer and a roll of toilet paper.  I knew today’s excursion was going to cost me a few rubles but I couldn’t sure that there would be toilet paper in the restroom - if there was even going to be a restroom.  I still shudder at the memory of the ГЖЕЛ experience last fall.  Thankfully, my fears were unfounded.  The restroom facilities were acceptable.  **These days my definition of “acceptable” means: toilet paper that is at minimum the texture of recycled newsprint or better, a door that closes (locks optional but preferable), a toilet with a seat, running water as well as soap in the dispensers at the washbasin.

The Worker and Kolkhoz Woman sculpture we passed on the way to the tray factory.  A young man holding a hammer and a lady with a sickle were to embody the masters of the Soviet land – labor class and collective farming.

This Sunday’s excursion led me (and 19 others) to the Жостово tray factory.  About 45 minutes (at 9AM on Sunday) from Moscow’s center is the small town of Жостово.  This small town’s main industry is centered around the production of decorated metal trays.  The artisans who live there survive on the proceeds of their craft.  Judging from the size of some of the dwellings, I’d say they were doing pretty well now.  Since Перестроика it has been a struggle to re-establish themselves and reopen their factory.

The pride they take in their craft was evident as our tour guide and the in-house artists were excited and pleased to share their work with us.  Our guide shared history and stories about many of the artists and the pieces on display on the walls.  She explained how key figures helped shape the now famous trade of hand-painted and lacquered trays from Жостово.  There is no other style quite like it in the world.  In fact, during the Soviet era, a delegation was sent from Moscow to Жостово in order to instruct them on proper painting techniques.  The Жостово artisans reportedly revolted against the intrusion and ran them out of town, back to Moscow.

samples of trays cataloging the history of the craft

 

the oldest tray in the collection (late 1800s)

It is said that the images on the trays from Жостово portray the inner happiness and spirit of the artists.  Their energy flows from within to rest upon the surface of the tray, resulting in beautiful, one of a kind masterpieces.

our tour guide - she was incredibly passionate and very engaging

 
A variety of details from trays demonstrating styles, colours and techniques.

Some of the more stylized and political pieces 

It was finally time for us to try our hands at this art.  I remember exactly why I switched from studio art to photography as I tried desperately to master the techniques we were shown.  I won’t say epic fail, but I sure don't have a career path awaiting me in Жостово any time soon. 

Studio

our goal

instructor demonstrating technique

My tray - the only parts I am satisfied with are the blue berries.  Practice makes perfect, I guess!

the group's efforts

At the end of the day, I had fun and I contributed to the growth of the local economy.  Who can ask for anything more?

This piece may have come home with me along with a few friends...  It just kind of happened.  Mr. U has forgiven me.  My excursion bought him a day of alone time.  I suppose you can put a price on peace and quiet.  I'm just not sharing what that price may be.

улица Варварка

onion domes

Sunday walks through Moscow are always educational when Maria G. is leading the tour.  Our walk around the area known as Заряде, along улица Варварка, was interesting and informative.  Emerging from metro Китай-город to street level through a series of mostly abandoned corridors and underground passageways (it was, after all, Sunday morning), you pop up onto a very unassuming street.  Unless you know where you are and what you’re looking for, you do not realize that you’re standing on one of Moscow’s oldest streets.  Thankfully, we had our Maria to show us the way.

last remaining piece of the old city wall - it is 6 m thick at the base

Rather than provide you with a boring history lesson (ugh, who wants to read one if there is no test at the end of it?!!), feel free to check out the following link that provides a very comprehensive and concise description of the area, the churches and sights along улица Варварка: http://www.moscow.info/streets/ulitsa-varvarka.aspx  Panic not, it is written entirely in English and is only one page long.

 

Trinity Church

We visited most of the sights along улица Варварка and even had the chance to enter St. Maksim's during Sunday services.  It was warm, welcoming and well-attended.  There were no pews and as such, everyone (except the younger children) was paying rapt attention.  The ceilings  and walls were covered with beautiful frescoes and there was a station for warm drinks for the children.  There were also a few boys sitting on the steps, sulking.  I imagine they were sent there to reflect on their behaviour while in a house of worship.  It seems that it does not matter where in the world you are, there are always a few pouting boys in the corner.

Our time spent with Michael (the guide in the House of the Boyars Romanov) was very interesting.  The museum gives you a glimpse of life in the aristocratic lane during the 15th -17th centuries.  There were certainly some surprising aspects and traditions to be learned, not to mention negotiating the excessively steep and narrow staircases that connect each level of the home.  (The Dutch would have been proud, to be sure.)

The Romanov griffon.  (Note the bullet hole in the griffon's sword arm - an injury from the revolution.)

outdoor cooking facilities reconstructed to original archeological findings - wooden houses were not suitable for indoor cooking.

The seat of privilege at the Master's table.  Those seated closest to the head of the table received pepper and salt to flavour their meal (pepper being an even more precious commodity than salt at the time) and ate with cutlery and from tableware.  Those seated furthest away did not have access to these luxuries.  Your social status dictated your place at the table.

Modern interpretation of the ceiling restoration.  Carbon from burning candles would have made it impossible to decorate the ceiling thus.

hand-washing vessel

16th Century glassware

Study

Dowry box

How to keep your house in order - a basic manual of mores, rules, regulations and actions one must take in order to keep one's house "in order".  For example, a man must beat his wife to keep her in line but never when there is company over, never about the face and head and never while she is pregnant.  The same goes for his sons - not to beat them is to do them a disservice.  Don't get me started.

 

Italian globe showing the world as it was known in the 16th C 

 

kitchen tools and implements

weaponry - the rounded trunk in the left foreground is waterproof, floats and is made from seal skin; the open trunk on the right has 16 different locks for security

Michael, our museum guide, explaining about arrows

Throughout the house the heating units were all decorated beautifully - this oven was used for bread baking and the top was used as a platform to keep ailing babies wrapped in dough warm in order to expel any illness.  Yes, I said "wrapped in dough".  I wasn't asking any further questions.

Our final stop was at the English Court, the original English Embassy in Moscow.  Dating back to Elizabethan times, the building is very well preserved and provides a glimpse into the workings of the diplomatic community and relations of the past.

main fireplace/heating unit

meeting hall

old Russian alphabet and numerical system

Just a stone’s throw away down the street, through cleverly concealed underground passages, St. Basil’s and Red Square appear.  I never tire of visiting this area.  Each time I do, I marvel at the fact that I am not a visitor, but I live here and can (and do) visit any time I like.  Red Square is not just a far away place that I have seen photos of.  It is a 20 minute metro ride away from my house.  Never in a million years did I ever think this would be my reality.

I am blessed and truly thankful.