Sunday Tray Day

Awake long before the sun, I bundled myself up in a coat, gloves, a long, wooly scarf and a pair of boots.  My MEC backpack was stocked with some apple slices and peanut butter, crackers and cheese, a wallet full of ca$h, some hand sanitizer and a roll of toilet paper.  I knew today’s excursion was going to cost me a few rubles but I couldn’t sure that there would be toilet paper in the restroom - if there was even going to be a restroom.  I still shudder at the memory of the ГЖЕЛ experience last fall.  Thankfully, my fears were unfounded.  The restroom facilities were acceptable.  **These days my definition of “acceptable” means: toilet paper that is at minimum the texture of recycled newsprint or better, a door that closes (locks optional but preferable), a toilet with a seat, running water as well as soap in the dispensers at the washbasin.

The Worker and Kolkhoz Woman sculpture we passed on the way to the tray factory.  A young man holding a hammer and a lady with a sickle were to embody the masters of the Soviet land – labor class and collective farming.

This Sunday’s excursion led me (and 19 others) to the Жостово tray factory.  About 45 minutes (at 9AM on Sunday) from Moscow’s center is the small town of Жостово.  This small town’s main industry is centered around the production of decorated metal trays.  The artisans who live there survive on the proceeds of their craft.  Judging from the size of some of the dwellings, I’d say they were doing pretty well now.  Since Перестроика it has been a struggle to re-establish themselves and reopen their factory.

The pride they take in their craft was evident as our tour guide and the in-house artists were excited and pleased to share their work with us.  Our guide shared history and stories about many of the artists and the pieces on display on the walls.  She explained how key figures helped shape the now famous trade of hand-painted and lacquered trays from Жостово.  There is no other style quite like it in the world.  In fact, during the Soviet era, a delegation was sent from Moscow to Жостово in order to instruct them on proper painting techniques.  The Жостово artisans reportedly revolted against the intrusion and ran them out of town, back to Moscow.

samples of trays cataloging the history of the craft

 

the oldest tray in the collection (late 1800s)

It is said that the images on the trays from Жостово portray the inner happiness and spirit of the artists.  Their energy flows from within to rest upon the surface of the tray, resulting in beautiful, one of a kind masterpieces.

our tour guide - she was incredibly passionate and very engaging

 
A variety of details from trays demonstrating styles, colours and techniques.

Some of the more stylized and political pieces 

It was finally time for us to try our hands at this art.  I remember exactly why I switched from studio art to photography as I tried desperately to master the techniques we were shown.  I won’t say epic fail, but I sure don't have a career path awaiting me in Жостово any time soon. 

Studio

our goal

instructor demonstrating technique

My tray - the only parts I am satisfied with are the blue berries.  Practice makes perfect, I guess!

the group's efforts

At the end of the day, I had fun and I contributed to the growth of the local economy.  Who can ask for anything more?

This piece may have come home with me along with a few friends...  It just kind of happened.  Mr. U has forgiven me.  My excursion bought him a day of alone time.  I suppose you can put a price on peace and quiet.  I'm just not sharing what that price may be.