...The famous words pronounced by Hephaestus (the god of fire and metalworking) moments before he unleashes h-e-double-hockey-sticks on his enemies.
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| taken from the frieze of Apollo's temple at Δελϕοι |
Our day started at 8:30AM when “Bill” (Vassilios) picked us up from the lobby of our hotel in Αθηνα (Athens) and whisked us off in his new Mercedes through country roads towards the ancient Greek ruins of what was once the city of Δελϕοι (Delphi). He was kind enough to make a few stops along the way for photo ops and a bit of local lore and history. Marble, a construction staple in Greece, is processed at a number of factories just outside of the Αθηνα city limits. There was no work going on this day but evidence of orders awaiting delivery were scattered throughout the lot.
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| low grade marble -it is not pure white |
Driving through the countryside passing many olive orchards, cotton fields and farmland, I was reminded of the Canadian landscape with its wide open spaces and rich soil. In many rural areas, cultivating the land and selling the produce (potatoes and onions) in large city markets is the only source of income. Starting their thrice weekly 100+ km trek at 5:30AM in order to set up early and catch the local shoppers, the farmers work year-round, hopefully returning home at 4PM with empty trucks.
Looming up ahead in what seemed to be a randomly chosen area was a beautiful piece of public art -a memorial to the 135 residents of the rural areas who made the ultimate sacrifice when they were rounded up and executed by the Nazis during their 2 year occupation of Greece from 1942-1944. The names of all those who perished are listed on the wall, along with their ages. The three figures represent three generations of Greek men -grandfather, son and grandson. The silhouettes represent the countless other Greek souls lost during the Second World War.
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| an arresting monument |
Two and a half hours after we set out for Δελϕοι we arrived in a small town 15 miles from our ultimate destination. Bill was proud to take us to a small bakery in Αραχωβα (Arachova), a small community whose economy thrives on the ski bunnies that flock to Mount Parnassus just above. Apparently they make the best
σπανακόπιτα (spanakopita -spinach pie) in all of Greece -I’m inclined to agree with him not knowing any better, of course. We also stopped by a linen and weaving shop where the owner made us a thick, delicious Greek coffee on the spot. We, of course, made sure to help out the local economy by purchasing a few trinkets to take back home. I think we were the only sale of the day if not the week.
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| the view of Αραχωβα from across the valley -the homes are made of stone instead of plaster |
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| the valley below Αραχωβα |
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| bakery with the best σπανακόπιτα ever! |
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| bakery |
Ten minutes later we found ourselves dodging gentle raindrops and winding our way down a rocky path towards the remains of the Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia (meaning Temple of Athena before that of Apollo) at the base of Δελϕοι. Three columns have been reconstructed in order to give visitors a clearer picture of what was once surely a magnificent and awe-inspiring Tholos (circular place of worship) devoted to the goddess of wisdom.
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| Tholos at the Sanctuary of Athena in the distance Photo: Mr. U |
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| a 1905 landslide destroyed what was left of the Tholos; now partially reconstructed in the background |
Not far from these ruins is what remains of the Gymnasium, the indoor
and outdoor training grounds for competitors of the Pythian Games
(precursor to the Olympic Games). These can not be accessed by foot but
can be viewed from the grounds of the Δελϕοι Museum.
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| the round structure was used as a training wrestling pit photo: Mr. U |
We weren’t quite prepared for the steep ascent facing us but forged on ahead nonetheless past the remains of various Treasuries, Apollo’s temple (the seat of the Pythia -the Oracle of Δελϕοι), the Theatre and finally reached the Stadium -the site of the Pythian Games. It was at about this point that I realized that I should have visited the WC before making the steep, 30 minute climb towards (what I was now convinced was) Mount Olympus. The descent was fast, furious and fraught with fear. I would have liked to linger a bit longer at each site and perhaps spend more time at the Temple of Apollo but it was not to be. Perhaps I should have consulted with the Pythia first. Oh well, at least I have photos.
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| the Temple of Apollo, seat of the Oracle of Δελϕοι |
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| Ionic column |
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| the view up... Apollo's temple columns in the distance (center) are only 1/2 way there |
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| the view down from the Stadium |
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| the nosebleed section of the Stadium bleachers |
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| the view down the length of the Stadium (200 meters) |
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| I haven't a clue what this tree is called but it was pretty and smelled sweet and they were everywhere |
Crisis narrowly averted once again, we set off towards the Δελϕοι Museum where we discovered numerous treasures. It was like seeing the pages of my General Art History textbook come alive once again. This country is incredible. Their pride and commitment to the preservation of history is commendable.
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| mosaic |
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| mosaic detail |
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| κοῦρος (kouros, male youths) |
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| Sphinx column decoration |
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| nom nom nom.... |
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| Athena Nike |
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| column decoration |
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| patron sculpture -philosopher or elder |
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| Heracles fights the Minotaur |
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| frieze taken from Apollo's Temple |
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| not so interested, this one |
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| ossuary |
A quick tour of St. Nicholas in New Δελϕοι showed us a prime example of a Greek Orthodox church. There was a funeral being held for an 86 year old man so we didn’t linger as we didn’t wish to intrude on the solemn occasion. The church’s interior walls are fully decorated with hand-painted frescoes, icons and furnishings commissioned by the wealthier patrons of the community. The symbols of Greek orthodoxy include a two-headed eagle with a crown floating above. This motif appears on the bright yellow flag that flies outside of each church.
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| St. Nicholas in New Δελϕοι -note the flag |
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| New Δελϕοι |
Next stop was a late lunch that became our dinner. We were seated in a window seat of a restaurant that was once a family home. Our waiter, “Mike”, brought us σαγανάκι (saganaki -grilled cheese), ντολμάς (dolmades -rice and meat stuffed grape leaves), lamb and potatoes and for dessert we enjoyed yogurt with honey. The only thing missing was a Greek salad but I’m not sure we could have eaten a salad if we tried. Looking out the window we watched a trip of goats wander through the meadow below followed by the shepherding dog and then finally the shepherd himself. Dinner and a show!
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| ντολμάς |
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| dining room |
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| "Our Family Restaurant" |
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| the view through the window -The valley floor is entirely filled with olive trees and the town at the water's edge in the background is called Ιτεα (Itea) and borders on the Corinthian Gulf. |
Back into the car we piled for the two hour and change ride home. Bill offered to take us back to the airport on Saturday and we gladly accepted his offer, not wanting to deal with any hassle on our way home. He also gave us his digits and encouraged us to call him for another tour or two if we were looking for excursions out of the city on Thursday or Friday. Poseidon’s Temple sunset visit is sounding good to me. I just have to convince Mr. U that it will be worth the investment. With the price of petrol hovering around 1.78 €/L (2.33$ CAD), hiring a private taxi sure doesn’t come cheap, you know!
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| "Bill" (Vassilis) |
