Taking advantage of the beautiful Spring weather, we played tourist on Saturday. Out of sheer coincidence, we visited the Новодевичье монастырь и кла́дбище (Novodevichiy convent and cemetery) in the afternoon and were witness to a midnight mass later that night.
Still feeling adventurous after our long day of playing tourist, we decided to try a new restaurant -the Louisiana Steak House. Despite the bartender breaking the blender with our drink orders (apparently ordering a margarita is complicated in a cowboy-themed restaurant) and taking forever to bring the beer some of us ordered, we managed to have a fun evening. Our server didn't know how to take us at first but eventually figured out that we were generally harmless. The language barrier made things very challenging for some of us at the table (*ahem, I held my own, TYVM). At that point that she started treating us like little children because it was easier that way. It was all very amusing. The funny thing is that we are all at least 10 years older than she is. She was cute and got a good tip for her troubles (pains?). After a good steak dinner (yum!) and a fun night out with great friends, it was near midnight and time to head home.
A wrong turn down a side
street led us, purely by chance, to the church seen below. The traffic
was stopped and we had no idea why. It turns out that the streets were
blocked with church-goers celebrating Orthodox Easter. The church bells
were being rung by hand (and foot!) for 15 minutes. It was a sight
(and sound) to behold. All of the women had their heads covered and
each person held a lit candle, sharing their flames and light with each
other. It was beautiful.
*if you look to the right of the clock face in the bell tower, you can just make out the person ringing the bells
A little lesson about Orthodox Easter in Russia...
Russian Orthodox Easter Customs
http://www.holidays.net/easter/russianeaster.htm
Easter is the predominant springtime feast celebrated by the Russian Orthodox. For religious Russians, the entire Lenten Season, referred to as the Quadragesima, has a markedly different feel than normal, day-to-day life. Historically, all theatre and music performances were banned during Lent, as they were considered distraction from the Lenten proscription to reflect and repent. Today, these public restrictions have lessened, although many individuals still maintain a strict adherence to the requirements of Lent, including not eating meat, eggs or other animal products during the 40 day "fast".
Holy week, beginning with Palm Sunday, is a time of great activity in Russian homes, including spring cleaning and baking Easter bread. On Holy Thursday, Russians paint their Easter eggs using their traditional method of boiling onion peels and scraps of silk together with the eggs. Painted eggs are a universal symbol of Easter, but in Russia they take on even greater significance. Russian Easter eggs are believed to possess magical powers-from protecting crops to warding off evil spirits. Many hide an Easter egg in the foundation of their home, believing that it will bring prosperity.
On Holy Saturday, a strict day fasting in which no food may be eaten at all, families are nonetheless busy preparing for the Easter feast. The feast, served to break the fast after the midnight mass, includes the Paskha Easter cake, baked on Holy Saturday.
Like in Greece, Easter Mass in Russia is held on Saturday night. Worshipers congregate in a totally darkened church, which symbolizes the despair of a world without faith in Jesus Christ. Historically, the eve of Holy Saturday was considered a haunted time, in which satanic creatures tormented townsmen. People were afraid to go out after dark, but persevered to attend Mass, since Church was considered a safe haven.
As midnight approaches, worshipers light candles and then, at the strike of 12 o'clock, church bells announce the resurrection of Christ. An intensely joyful Orthodox liturgical chant can be heard throughout the streets of Russia until the conclusion of Easter Mass at dawn.
Worshipers return to their homes for a long family feast. Tables are traditionally decorated with fresh flowers and painted eggs. In addition to the Easter bread and Paskha cake, foods prohibited during the 40 Day Fast, such as sausage, bacon, cheese and milk, are also served.
After breakfast, people go out to visit friends and neighbors, bringing with them baskets of painted eggs and Easter breads to exchange. An old Russian fable tells that an Easter egg given from the heart will never spoil. People also visit cemeteries, bringing eggs, bread and even beer to their deceased relatives.
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| photo: Mark Bond |
Still feeling adventurous after our long day of playing tourist, we decided to try a new restaurant -the Louisiana Steak House. Despite the bartender breaking the blender with our drink orders (apparently ordering a margarita is complicated in a cowboy-themed restaurant) and taking forever to bring the beer some of us ordered, we managed to have a fun evening. Our server didn't know how to take us at first but eventually figured out that we were generally harmless. The language barrier made things very challenging for some of us at the table (*ahem, I held my own, TYVM). At that point that she started treating us like little children because it was easier that way. It was all very amusing. The funny thing is that we are all at least 10 years older than she is. She was cute and got a good tip for her troubles (pains?). After a good steak dinner (yum!) and a fun night out with great friends, it was near midnight and time to head home.
 |
| The sign reads: Louisiana Steak House |
 |
| Don't worry, I signed up with the Captain but I'm pretty sure we weren't in NOLA. |
 |
| Oh my. |
*if you look to the right of the clock face in the bell tower, you can just make out the person ringing the bells
A little lesson about Orthodox Easter in Russia...
Russian Orthodox Easter Customs
http://www.holidays.net/easter/russianeaster.htm
Easter is the predominant springtime feast celebrated by the Russian Orthodox. For religious Russians, the entire Lenten Season, referred to as the Quadragesima, has a markedly different feel than normal, day-to-day life. Historically, all theatre and music performances were banned during Lent, as they were considered distraction from the Lenten proscription to reflect and repent. Today, these public restrictions have lessened, although many individuals still maintain a strict adherence to the requirements of Lent, including not eating meat, eggs or other animal products during the 40 day "fast".
Holy week, beginning with Palm Sunday, is a time of great activity in Russian homes, including spring cleaning and baking Easter bread. On Holy Thursday, Russians paint their Easter eggs using their traditional method of boiling onion peels and scraps of silk together with the eggs. Painted eggs are a universal symbol of Easter, but in Russia they take on even greater significance. Russian Easter eggs are believed to possess magical powers-from protecting crops to warding off evil spirits. Many hide an Easter egg in the foundation of their home, believing that it will bring prosperity.
On Holy Saturday, a strict day fasting in which no food may be eaten at all, families are nonetheless busy preparing for the Easter feast. The feast, served to break the fast after the midnight mass, includes the Paskha Easter cake, baked on Holy Saturday.
Like in Greece, Easter Mass in Russia is held on Saturday night. Worshipers congregate in a totally darkened church, which symbolizes the despair of a world without faith in Jesus Christ. Historically, the eve of Holy Saturday was considered a haunted time, in which satanic creatures tormented townsmen. People were afraid to go out after dark, but persevered to attend Mass, since Church was considered a safe haven.
As midnight approaches, worshipers light candles and then, at the strike of 12 o'clock, church bells announce the resurrection of Christ. An intensely joyful Orthodox liturgical chant can be heard throughout the streets of Russia until the conclusion of Easter Mass at dawn.
Worshipers return to their homes for a long family feast. Tables are traditionally decorated with fresh flowers and painted eggs. In addition to the Easter bread and Paskha cake, foods prohibited during the 40 Day Fast, such as sausage, bacon, cheese and milk, are also served.
After breakfast, people go out to visit friends and neighbors, bringing with them baskets of painted eggs and Easter breads to exchange. An old Russian fable tells that an Easter egg given from the heart will never spoil. People also visit cemeteries, bringing eggs, bread and even beer to their deceased relatives.
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