Saturday, July 13, 2013

Rubbing Elbows With Russian Royalty

The weather in Moscow in May and June is absolutely heavenly and I have been making an effort to take advantage of the sunny days to get out and about, especially when interesting opportunities present themselves.








This day’s destination was Коло́менское, a former royal estate of the Russian Tsars.   Recently restored to its former glory based on a wooden model of the palace, the structure that was once home to the royalty and nobility of Russian society is as impressive as it is enormous.  The original structure was reported to have been built without using saws, nails or hooks. 













Unfortunately for us, the palace-turned-museum was closed to the public for the day as it was rented out for a wedding reception.  Imagine that, an entire national museum closed in order to accommodate a wedding reception!  Lucky bride.

Ummm... Robert Palmer video, anyone?!
 

Nevertheless, a walk through the expansive estate grounds on a brilliant summer’s day was equally as wonderful.





Throughout the estate grounds, there are many small museums, local buildings and structures as well as constructions and artifacts that have been brought from other locations in order to preserve and showcase Russia’s rich history and culture. 

The Open-air museum showcasing Russian rural life in the late 19thC/early 20thC seemed all too familiar.  I was transported back to my childhood visit to Upper Canada Village while walking through the foundry, the stables and the carriage-house all recreated to give visitors a proper feel for the life and times of Russians over a century ago.  Life in Canada 150 years ago was very similar to life in Russia.

 

 






Peter the Great’s cabin, built in 1702 along the banks of the North Dvina River, was relocated to the Коло́менское estate in 1934.  The interior is furnished as it would have been in the time when Peter the Great resided there.  His office, a guard post and  a formal dining room are all frozen in time, 200 years ago.  Curiously, the door frames are quite low and even I had to watch my head as I crossed the threshold from one room to another.  With Peter the Great measuring in at 2.03 m (there was a nail in the wall indicating his height), I was curious as to why the door frames were so small.  The answer I was given was two-fold; firstly, a low door frame was a structural design intended to keep the heat from escaping from each room (heat rises and if the door frame was low, the heat would stay trapped in the room), secondly, apparently Peter the Great, despite his large frame, was somewhat agoraphobic and had an aversion to vast, open spaces.  A small, intimate cabin was perfectly suited to his taste.





Following the trails and walkways through apple orchards, open green spaces and past various churches, gates and pavilions, we arrived at what is known as The White Column of Коло́менское. 


«Половецкая баба» XII c. sculpture of a respected ancestor (usually found on burial sites)


Our Lady of Kazan -the blue domes adorned with golden stars is indicative of this designation

Are these crows sunbathing?!

clockworks

one for Mr. U's "Sepia Eagles Series"

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994, The Ascension Church (built to commemorate the birth of the future Ivan the Terrible) stands as a lonely, white beacon in the center of the 390 hectare grounds.  A masterpiece of Russian architecture with its dynamic elements coming together to form a breathtaking structure, the church is the very embodiment of an innovative break from Byzantine traditions.



What was meant to be a 3 hour estate tour turned into a fascinating, five hour in-situ history lesson.  I know of a few other castaways that left on a three hour tour and didn’t make it back to civilization for three seasons!  Luckily for us, there were no boat tours involved on this day out.  However, I did hear a story of how two friends out for a walk on the Коло́менское estate grounds ventured into the ravine and emerged 20 years later, much to everyone’s bewilderment.  Maybe there is something to these stories, after all. 

We steered clear of the ravine, just in case.

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