я не понедельник: A Date With Rodin, Alexandre III and the Tuileries

hotel stairwell -I'm taken with the bannister

So, clever me, thought I'd give Mr. U a break this morning and let him sleep in while I returned some shirts I bought for you-know-who (a failed attempt to avoid hotel laundry prices -needless to say it was an unsuccessful endeavour and Idon'twanttotalkaboutit) and then head over, unencumbered, to E.Dehillerin where my wallet was sure to take a huge hit. Breakfast for one was quiet and delicious, consisting of my "usual" plate of charcuterie & fromage, delicious decaf coffee and warm milk, freshly pressed red grapefruit juice and a bread basket with assorted, tiny, fresh pastries and baguette pieces. Now that I describe it, it sounds much more than what it is in reality. Regardless, it was a good start to my day.

Alas! As Robbie Burns so astutely pointed out:

But Mousie, thou art no thy lane,
In proving foresight may be vain:
The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men
Gang aft agley,
An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,
For promis'd joy!

excerpt from "To a Mouse, on Turning Her Up in Her Nest with the Plough", Burns 1785

-the best laid plans of mice and man, go often awry

Heading out to the street I noticed that BHV was closed (hmmm...strange) and the bakery down rue du Temple was still hiding behind its metal rollerblind. The small streetside vendors were not yet open and it was past 10AM when I left the hotel lobby. This all registered but didn't quite activate the realization it should have. When I was approached by the cutest older couple (I am sure they were from New Jersey) asking for help and directions to rue des Rosiers to see the Temple (oldest synagogue in Paris) and find the best falafels in the city, I still didn't clue into the fact that everywhere I looked and pointed to orient the couple was much quieter than usual. With a round of "watch your wallets and purses", "thank you SO much, dear" and "have a great rest of your trip" later, I sent them properly-oriented towards Notre Dame hoping they'd make it through the day without incident. I wasn't entirely convinced they would. I particularly enjoyed when the woman asked me when the old hotel became a store. It took me a few seconds and some deducing to figure out that she misunderstood the meaning of Hotel de Ville. I patiently explained that BHV (the store she was pointing at) had been a department store for as long as I could remember but right behind her was the Hotel de Ville, AKA City Hall. They were happy to learn something new and I was happy to help. They were as sweet as the day is long.

Finally on my way with my two bags of shirts to return down rue de Rivoli, I noticed that more stores were closed but again, I chalked that up to the August closures all throughout Paris and thought nothing of it. I was focused on getting to 102 rue de Rivoli and then on to 120 rue de Rivoli and then debating whether or not I wanted to walk the 20 minutes to E.Dehillerin or take advantage of the very convenient metro to get me there. Rounding the corner and arriving at The Gap I was met with a very peculiar sight. The staff was all sitting on the stoop, looking perplexed and slightly put off. The sales clerk I had spoken with the other day was there and we chatted for a bit. She let me know that they had all been waiting since before 10 AM and there was still no sign of the manager and hopefully it wouldn't be too much longer! We chatted a bit longer and it was at that point that I realized (and she confirmed) that it was, indeed, a «jour ferié». Whaaaaaat?! Oh for crying out loud. It is the 15th of August. Of course it is ferié. NOW my friend's FB post makes sense. He mentioned that he stayed up late the night before watching a couple of movies and was taking advantage of the pubic holiday to catch up after his "night owl activities". How could I have been so clueless?

You see, the 15th of August is (as it is in many countries throughout Europe) a holiday. This translates into practical terms as businesses either opening after noon or not at all. It seems that the Marais and the Champs Élysées are the only two areas with retail outlets opening during the day.

I slogged back to the hotel, slightly discouraged and dreading the sneaking suspicion that I would be soon receiving confirmation from the front desk that E.Dehillerin would be closed.

They say that the third time is the charm. I AM going to E. Dehillerin tomorrow (Thursday) and I AM going to buy a few things. Mr. U is convinced that the cosmos is trying to tell me something but I am convinced that my retail trouble is simply a by-product of being in Paris during the August holidays.

Today's plan was to visit the gardens and masterworks of Auguste Rodin, walk across the Seine and through the Tuileries garden. It was a great way to balance out the morning's EPIC FAIL. Mr. U needed some food (no art on an empty stomach; I've learned this one through the years) and I was a bit peckish so we stopped for a sandwich (for him) and a crêpe (for me) before heading out.

The Rodin sculpture garden is as wonderful as I remember it (this used to be my happy place) and the marble sculptures on display in the special exhibition are breathtaking. Rodin was a master of subtle shape and form and was able to coax the most exquisite results from a solid block of marble.

Heat exhaustion and crowds wearing us both down, it was high time we wandered back in the direction of the hotel to seek shelter from the +30 temperature outside. By way of the Pont Alexandre III and the Jardin des Tuilleries, we made our way back to the Marais for some much needed relief from the oppressive August heat.